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Richard S. Cunanan
July 26, 2016     |    

Pale Reflections

Panerai goes Procol Harum on their 1940 Automatic Radiomir

The brand of Panerai is nothing if not traditionalist. But they too see the need to avoid stagnation. If all they ever did was make the same watch, well, the world as we know it would choke and die. Okay, no, not really that bad. And Panerai really does practically make only two models of watch. But within those seemingly narrow parameters are a wealth of choices, and Panerai is now releasing one that we’ve never seen before.

The white-dial Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days Automatic Acciaio 42mm is so striking simply because it’s a color choice that’s so far off of the beaten path for Panerai watches. The Panerai palette tends to be pretty monochromatic, and to see such a strong departure is so unusual that for a moment all you can do is register the shock. It’s as if Mad Max showed up in a three-piece suit, or all the Backstreet Boys grew tails. To draw a later-than-last-century reference, I suppose it would be like Lady Gaga showing up in something non-controversial.

However you look at it, the arrival of the white Panerai Radiomir is likely to cause a sensation, and we will see exactly which way people will feel about it. Paneristi are not known for subtlety, so we should not have any trouble divining their feelings.

Panerai is steeped in their heritage, and rightly so. Their brand has a unique history, tied as it is to the Italian Navy and their elite teams of underwater frogmen. The Panerai brand made watches for these hardcore military teams, and the timepieces were designed to be used in the most severe and uncompromising of conditions. Not just war, but war underwater. Not just diving, but diving with explosives. Not just low visibility, but near-invisibility, and turning on a light could have meant the difference between life and death.

So Panerai is justly proud of their origins. But like I said, all life has to evolve.

Panerai has proved particularly adept at mining their past for gems to brighten up their watch collection. Among their well-received choices have been the various types of numeral indices, including simple slash marks in the luminous material, the “California dial” look of multiple types of numeric fonts, and the simple, classic, still-popular 3/6/9 display. The case materials have also shown nods to their naval heritage; the brand has released models encased in bronze, a metal with particularly strong seagoing association, reminiscent of portholes, propellers, anchors, and the endless ongoing relationship between ships and their native element.

But this piece still manages to find something new. The Radiomir 1940 3 Days Automatic Acciaio 42mm is the first model of the Radiomir 1940 collection to have a white dial. That makes for a new step for them, and a different, very eye-catching look among the other watches of the Panerai catalogue.

And what do you think? Let’s take a look at the piece and evaluate it.

The watch has a cushion-shaped stainless steel case, 42mm in diameter. The styling of the piece is adopted from the 1940s model, but the modern light look of the piece is due to the 10.93mm thickness, and the watch’s materials, finish, and ergonomics all contribute to the more contemporary feel.

The dial of the watch is also refreshingly modern, quite apart from the white color. The watch face seems more open, more accessible. The small seconds dial at 9 o’clock enhances the watch without cluttering it up. And although there are hour numerals in some cases, the tan-colored hour indices go a long way towards enhancing that feel. The tan color reflects the leather strap color, and is also seen in the watch’s hour and minute hands.

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