At the core of the Traditionnelle tourbillon retrograde date openface watch is the manifestation of an innovative aesthetic, a call for intricate mechanical features, and a yearning to impart creative mastery. The watch boasts an open-faced design that showcases the intricate architecture of the 2162 R31 movement, which is enhanced by the slate grey hue achieved through an NAC surface treatment, visible from both sides. The retrograde date display, coupled with a tourbillon, exudes a modern and functional allure that adds depth to the timepiece.
A retrograde date display is a type of indicator that does not complete a full turn of the dial. Instead, it travels along its entire measurement segment and returns to its starting point to begin a new journey, typically following an arc of a circle swept over by a dedicated hand. Retrograde displays are commonly used for cyclical time indications such as hours, minutes, seconds, days, or dates. This mechanism requires great precision and rigorous discipline, particularly when it comes to shock- and wear-resistance. In the 1920s, Vacheron Constantin first popularized special retrograde displays, a period when the Maison distinguished itself by adopting a style inspired by the aesthetic principles of Art Deco that allowed the imagination to run wild and incorporate extravagant touches.
The Traditionnelle tourbillon date retrograde openface, which is heir to the References 47245 and 47247 from the early Noughties, combines its retrograde display with a partially openworked dial, another signature of the Maison since the early 20th century. Openface dials showcase the technical nature and meticulous attention to detail through an avant-garde aesthetic approach. The new timepiece is housed in an 18K pink gold case measuring 41mm in diameter and only 11.07mm thick, and is fitted with a grey alligator strap secured by a pink gold folding clasp.
The Traditionnelle collection, with its stepped round case and lugs, fluted caseback, slim bezel, railway minute-track, bi-facetted Dauphine hands, and gold baton-type hour-markers, inherits its characteristic attributes from the Age of Enlightenment and Geneva’s grand High Watchmaking traditions. However, at Vacheron Constantin, respect for the past does not preclude creativity; in fact, it stimulates it. This timepiece, the result of three years of work and dialogue between artisans and master-watchmakers, showcases alternating hand-finishes that give it remarkable depth.
The openworked sapphire dial, which includes a guilloché segment, unveils the in-house Calibre 2162 R31. The retrograde mechanism plate, highlighted by a slate grey surface treatment achieved through a series of thin galvanic layers, is further enhanced by vertical hand-brushing on the upper part, with the surface smoothed using a dedicated abrasive to create subtle light effects, as well as a hand-guilloché lower part. The retrograde date display, complemented by a tourbillon, thus gains additional depth in an ultra-contemporary yet highly watchmaking style.
The tourbillon, stylized in the shape of a hollowed-out Maltese Cross, features a series of refined and complex finishes. The inside of its carriage is hand-bevelled, while its cone-shaped transversal bar is hand-polished to give it a mirror-like gleam close to perfection.
The Traditionnelle tourbillon retrograde date openface watch is a proud bearer of the Hallmark of Geneva, driven by a 242-component in-house movement. Calibre 2162 R31 adapts the concept of High Watchmaking to modern times, featuring a NAC slate grey finish, 72-hour power reserve, and decorated gold peripheral weight. Christian Selmoni, Director of Style and Heritage at Vacheron Constantin, notes that “This calibre exudes a palpable tension between High Watchmaking traditions and the permanent need to innovate. It will thus make a lasting mark on its time.”
At just 6.25 mm thick and beating at a rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour, Calibre 2162 R31 combines a retrograde date with a tourbillon. This unexpected combination creates a technical geometry of rare beauty, with the retrograde mechanism visible to the naked eye through the openworked dial. The majestic tourbillon is set in a contemporary mainplate with a high-quality watchmaking finish reflecting the grand Geneva tradition.
