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Carl S. Cunanan
June 2, 2021     |    

The Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K

That name says it all. But not really.

Black Bay Fifty-Eight

Yes, this is a yellow gold dive watch. With a green face. But there is so much more to the watch. In fact, unlike most gold watches, the material isn’t the key thing.

Yes it has an 18K gold case, but it is satin-finished and gives off a look that is not exactly what you would call flashy gold. And the green face and bezel insert? Also not that shiny, and under the domed sapphire crystal the whole piece has character more than just your basic gold watch. It is arguably more subtle than the gold and green watches from the crown to which it will of course be compared. And just like the Tudor GMT can hold its own against the Rolex GMT in terms of character, this new piece has its individuality as well.

Black Bay Fifty-Eight
Black Bay Fifty-Eight

The strap makes a big deal here. The watch comes with a dark brown alligator strap (of course with an 18 ct yellow gold buckle) and a green-with-gold-trim fabric strap as well. No huge flashy gold bracelet here. Just nicely matched casual straps that any enthusiast should appreciate.

In real life, especially sitting with a bunch of steel models around it, the watch is attention-getting. But on the wrist, on its own, it just comes off as a nicely-done wristwatch with nice color statement. It isn’t too flashy, too shiny. I am far more partial to blue face watches than green face ones, but the way this watch was executed can change that.

Black Bay Fifty-Eight
Black Bay Fifty-Eight

Now this new Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight will clearly sit at the top of the Tudor price range, but for some people it is actually a value proposition. A gold watch from a solid house with a manufacture movement, fully supported with the world’s most expansive service system. Rather than think of the watch as a gold watch for Tudor enthusiasts, it may well be better thought of as a watch for those who have or are used to flashy gold watches but want something different.

Will it be for everyone? Not at all. But will it be somewhat distinct in a sea of other gold sports watches? For someone who feels he has nothing to prove?

Technical specifications: CASE: 39 mm case, satin fi nished, in 18 ct yellow gold, Open case back with sapphire crystal | BEZEL: Unidirectional rotatable bezel in 18 ct yellow gold with 60-minute graduated disc in matt green anodised aluminium and gold gilded markings and numerals | WINDING CROWN: 18 ct yellow gold screw-down winding crown, with the TUDOR rose in relief with circular satinbrushed 18 ct yellow gold winding crown tube | DIAL: Green, domed | CRYSTAL: Domed sapphire crystal | WATERPROOFNESS: Waterproof to 200 m (660 ft ) | BRACELET:  Domed dark brown alligator strap with 18 ct yellow gold buckle, Additional green fabric strap with gold-coloured band and 18 ct yellow gold buckle, included in the box | CALIBRE:  Manufacture Calibre MT5400, Self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor system | PRECISION: Swiss chronometer offi cially certifi ed by COSC (Swiss Offi cial Chronometer Testing Institute) | FUNCTIONS: Centre hour, minute and seconds hands, Stop-seconds for precise time setting | OSCILLATOR: Variable inertia balance, microadjustment by screw, Non-magnetic silicon balance spring, Frequency: 28 800 beats/hour (4 Hz) | TOTAL DIAMETER: 30.3 mm | THICKNESS 5 mm |  JEWELS: 27 jewels | POWER RESERVE: Approximately 70 hours

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In this case it’s the new Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925