Yes, this is a yellow gold dive watch. With a green face. But there is so much more to the watch. In fact, unlike most gold watches, the material isn’t the key thing.
Yes it has an 18K gold case, but it is satin-finished and gives off a look that is not exactly what you would call flashy gold. And the green face and bezel insert? Also not that shiny, and under the domed sapphire crystal the whole piece has character more than just your basic gold watch. It is arguably more subtle than the gold and green watches from the crown to which it will of course be compared. And just like the Tudor GMT can hold its own against the Rolex GMT in terms of character, this new piece has its individuality as well.
The strap makes a big deal here. The watch comes with a dark brown alligator strap (of course with an 18 ct yellow gold buckle) and a green-with-gold-trim fabric strap as well. No huge flashy gold bracelet here. Just nicely matched casual straps that any enthusiast should appreciate.
In real life, especially sitting with a bunch of steel models around it, the watch is attention-getting. But on the wrist, on its own, it just comes off as a nicely-done wristwatch with nice color statement. It isn’t too flashy, too shiny. I am far more partial to blue face watches than green face ones, but the way this watch was executed can change that.
Now this new Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight will clearly sit at the top of the Tudor price range, but for some people it is actually a value proposition. A gold watch from a solid house with a manufacture movement, fully supported with the world’s most expansive service system. Rather than think of the watch as a gold watch for Tudor enthusiasts, it may well be better thought of as a watch for those who have or are used to flashy gold watches but want something different.
Will it be for everyone? Not at all. But will it be somewhat distinct in a sea of other gold sports watches? For someone who feels he has nothing to prove?