Words: Bert Casal
June 18, 2024     |    

DOXA SUB 200T: True to Its Traditions

DOXA presents the new SUB 200T with a new diameter in green.

Gone are the days of oversized watches. The demand for smaller, more compact diameters is growing. And the same goes for dive watches. It is true that the principle of sport watches should be comfortable, more wearable. Why should it be any different for dive watches? To answer this call, DOXA released the first SUB in a 39 mm diameter case, the DOXA SUB 200T

The watch brand DOXA was established in 1889 when Georges Ducommun opened his own business in Switzerland, naming it Georges Ducommun, Fabriques Doxa. In Greek, the word “Doxa” means “glory.” His drive was to make the next watch even better than the last. It didn’t take long for his works to be synonymous with quality, value, and innovation. Mr. Ducommun passed away in 1936. His son-in-law Jacques Nardin (grandson of Ulysse Nardin) took over the helm and continued the founder’s vision.

After the second world war, diving began to gain popularity. The quest for producing the perfect dive watch was on. This trend continued to grow during the 1960s, when recreational diving picked up. As scuba diving began to evolve, so did the diving watch. Watch companies kept on improving what technologies they already had, from improving watch cases to producing better calibres.

DOXA, on the other hand, decided to approach the challenge with a blank sheet of paper. Mr. Urs Eschle, the product manager of DOXA in 1964, set up a research team with several professional divers and experienced watchmakers. Their goal was to develop the first affordable sports diver watch for leisure and professional divers. It had to be reliable, comfortable, and a highly legible piece of equipment.

From the ground up, the team chose a massive solid stainless steel tonneau case. This type of case profile enhanced protection for the movement. The shape also protected the crown from accidental scraping. To solve the problem of underwater legibility, Mr. Eschle suggested using a bright color dial with oversized luminous markers with the highest amount of tritium ever seen on a wristwatch. They tested different color dials to a depth of 30 meters under water, and the dial color that stood out the best (based on their tests) was orange.
The only element that divers manipulate under water is the bezel. Mr. Eschle’s team decided to utilize a saw-tooth edge for optimum grip, either with gloves or with wet hands, and made it rotate in only one direction. The team also designed a new kind of flex buckle on the stainless steel bracelet, which easily adapts itself to the diameter of the wrist, with or without a wetsuit.

Mr. Eschle traveled to California, contacted Jacques Cousteau, and showed him the watch. Cousteau and his team were so impressed by the wristwatch that they decided to exclusively market the DOXA SUB 300 in the USA. The success of the DOXA SUB, with the help of Cousteau, led to the development and creation of the HRV helium valve.

This year, at the Geneva Watch Week, DOXA released their latest DOXA SUB, this time in smaller dimensions, a smaller 39 mm case that is more in tune with the times. The new DOXA SUB 200T makes its grand entrance with a wide range of variant choices. It is now available in 8 DOXA colors: Professional Orange, Searambler Silver, Sharkhunter Black, Caribbean Navy, Divingstar Yellow, Aquamarine Turquoise, Whitepearl White, and now the new Sea Emerald Green.

Sea Emerald Green is a color that is timeless, and it resonates deeply with the essence of the brand. This particular shade captures the ever-changing reflections of water — whether salty or fresh, shallow or deep. It also ushers in a new dimension of style for diving watch enthusiasts. The SUB 200T distinguishes itself with golden hands and hour markers that gracefully contrast with the green dial.

The DOXA SUB 200T Sea Emerald Green comes in two different styles of dial. One is equipped with the timeless elegance of the Iconic dial, which effortlessly signals subtlety and sophistication, reflecting a refined and minimalist design. The second has a Sunray dial which elegantly captures every ray of light to create a mesmerizing spectacle of reflections and hues. It adds a touch of dynamism and sparkle to the wrist with its captivating play of light and shadow.

The strap has the sporty appeal of FKM rubber, known for its flexibility and light weight. It snugly fits the contours of the wrist while enduring the rigors of the elements. It guarantees a comfortable fit all day long, resistant to sweat, water and extreme temperatures, making it the ultimate choice for people with an active lifestyle. Or if you prefer, you can opt for the “beads of rice” bracelet in stainless steel. This bracelet embraces the legacy of DOXA. It conveys the appreciation of heritage, durability, and effortless elegance, bridging the past to the present in an expression of refinement and reliability.

The new DOXA SUB 200T retains all of the original SUB’s DNA while embracing modern style and sophistication. Its smaller 39 mm diameter case makes it more wearable for an everyday watch. It is crafted from premium 316L stainless steel and has its patented unidirectional rotating bezel with its integrated US Navy no-decompression limit table. It has a self-winding mechanical Swiss movement that beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and has a power reserve of approximately 38 hours.

The new SUB 200T transcends mere choice. It stands as the quintessential dive watch, versatile and suitable for all wrists, combining reliability, technicality and accessibility. Faithful to DOXA principles since the launch of the first SUB in 1967, it is designed to be perfectly in sync with every moment of your life, be it on an adventure or your most elegant occasions.


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