NEVER ornate nor ostentatious, NOMOS Glashutte’s Tangente, Orion, Ludwig and Tetra are. These four classics have defined the brand’s Bauhaus aesthetics for nigh on 25 years. This year, all see new renditions that are even purer than ever, their proportions scaled down, their essence distilled. Well, the pieces have now even opted to be mere two-handers, explaining the “Duo” tag appended to their respective model names.
The watches’ smaller renditions, Nomos says, suit the delicate wrists of women, making them perfect for June brides. As for losing their small second subdials; well, Nomos simply says one has “all the time in the world” when one is in love. There isn’t any need to watch the seconds tick by.
Nomos launched these new pieces at this year’s Baselworld. The Tangente, Orion and Ludwig Duo versions all measure only 32.8 millimeters across, although their flat dials and thin bezels conspire to make the watches appear larger than what their actual dimensions suggest. The Tetra is even smaller at only 27.5 millimeters square.
True to Bauhaus’s functional leanings, the four watches are all housed in steel cases, and are matched to white silver-plated dials. But being minimalist does not mean being sparse. So the watches get their two thin hands in gold, highlighting the Duo component best. Nomos says the resulting look means the watches could easily be paired with jewelry.
The watches’ other dial furniture are as subtle, courtesy of mocha brown, almost black, indices and markers. As always, the Tangente and Tetra mix together Arabic numerals and stick markers, the Orion opts for all stick indices, the Ludwig pairs Roman numerals with simple indices. Beige velour-lined Shell Cordovan leather straps complement the understated aesthetics.
Oh, the watches’ solid casebacks are not without a purpose, too; Nomos proposes these as blank canvasses onto which expressions of love can be engraved (the watchmaker can even perform the engravings).
Beneath the cases of all four Nomos classics beat another brand signature —the handwound, in-house Alpha 2 calibre, which is basically the pioneering Alpha movement Nomos has been using for decades, only now it loses its second function. It operates at 21,600vph, has 17 jewels and keeps a 43-hour power reserve. Though hidden behind the Duo quartet’s solid caseback, the Alpha 2 remains decorated with blued screws, rhodium-plated surfaces, Nomos’s perlage and sunburst touches, and Glashutte ribbing on its three-quarter plate. This makes the Duo timepieces beautiful inside and out.
As June brides usually are.