Bert Casal
May 18, 2023     |    

The Trilogy of Burgundy

Revealing the latest evolution of the Black Bay.

The original Black Bay was first launched in 2012 with a burgundy bezel. Four years later, the color came out once more, but this time, carried a Manufacture Calibre. This year, the Black Bay with the burgundy bezel returns for the third time carrying cutting-edge watchmaking technology with design elements inspired by TUDOR’s heritage of making robust professional diving watches.

This latest release of the Black Bay still carries the signature details of what makes it a Black Bay. It sports the inverted triangle at the 12 o’clock position, rectangular indices at the 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, and circles for the remaining hour markers. It also has the iconic snowflake hour hand and the lollipop seconds hand.

Inside the case ticks the Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U that displays the hour, minute, and seconds functions. It offers the general look and feel of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres with dedicated sun laser design and bears the Master Chronometer on its bridges. Its rotor is fashioned in tungsten monobloc and is openwork. It also features the distinctive laser radial grooving with sand-blasted and polished surfaces and laser decorations.

In order to be labeled as a Master Chronometer, the watch needs to undergo comprehensive certification tests, which include precision, resistance to magnetic fields, waterproofness, and power reserve. In order to qualify, the watch must be able to function within a 5-second range of variation each day (0 +5), that is to say 5 seconds less that the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) that requires a -4 +6 variance, and a second less than TUDOR’s internal standard, which is applied to the brand’s models with a Manufacture Calibre (-2 +4).

All test and prerequisites leading to the Master Chronometer certification, which the Black Bay has achieved, are summarized as follows:

  • Swiss made
  • Certification by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC)Precision at two temperatures in six different positions, and at two different levels of power reserve: 100% and 33%
  • Smooth functioning when exposed to a magnetic field of 15,000 gauss and precision following exposure
  • Waterproof to 200 meters (660 feet) in accordance with ISO standard 22810:2010
  • 70-hour power reserve

The Black Bay with burgundy bezel remains one of TUDOR’s most recognized models. In its latest iteration, named Black Bay, the case keeps the original proportions of a 41mm diameter case with a thinner profile. The unidirectional rotatable bezel offers very prehensible sides and its insert shows subtly curved numerals aligning with the outline of the outer ring.

This Black Bay with burgundy bezel has three variations. The first is fitted with an entirely satin-brushed three-link steel bracelet. The second comes with a five-oval-shaped-link brushed and polished steel bracelet. They both come with the TUDOR “T-fit” clasp equipped with a system for rapid length adjustment that requires no tools. The clasp ceramic ball bearings that ensure a smooth and secure closure in addition to adding a pleasing tactile element to the action of the clasp.

The third variation comes with a black rubber strap. It comes in three sizes complete with TUDOR “T-fit” clasp. For the perfect fit, it is able to be cut down to the exact size of the wearer’s wrist. On the inside it features the signature snowflake motif, and it is form-fitted specifically for the Black Bay.

Though it has a neo-vintage aura, its manufacturing techniques, reliability, robustness, and the quality of its finish are consistent with today’s more rigorous requirements.”

The Black Bay line is the result of the subtle blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary watchmaking. It brings together over sixty years of TUDOR dive watches, at the same time being resolutely anchored in the present. Though it has a neo-vintage aura, its manufacturing techniques, reliability, robustness, and the quality of its finish are consistent with today’s more rigorous requirements.


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