Words: Kit Payumo
June 15, 2024     |    

Something For Dad

Six watches from coveted brands that watch-collecting dads would love to receive as a gift on their special day.

Pursuing an activity that brings you joy can be the one of the most rewarding activities of one’s life, and it doesn’t matter if this particular activity is at all beneficial to you or to anyone else but just happens to be something you have a profound passion for. According to indeed.com, “A passion is a value that holds significant meaning to you or an activity that you enjoy doing. When you practice your passions, you might feel content and relaxed. As a professional, pursuing your passions as a career can bring you greater fulfillment in the contributions you make in the workplace. You might also prefer to exercise your hobbies outside of the work environment, where being passionate can help you develop and maintain a healthy work-life balance.”

Collecting is a form of passion and a fun and rewarding way of maintaining a healthy work-life balance. People have been known to collect anything from snow globes, to Starbucks mugs, and to toys (that’s another extremely deep rabbit hole that we can get into at another time). Yes, collectibles take every shape or form whether they be stamps, classic records (vinyl), movie DVDs, and watches. That’s right, watches. And it just so happens that Father’s Day is right around the corner and let me tell you, there are a lot of (very) passionate watch collector Dads out there who are secretly hoping they’d be gifted with one (or more) timepieces they have on their wish list.

We’re not talking hyper-exclusive watches, of course. Most Dads (barring the occasional oil baron) wouldn’t want their loved ones to have to donate an organ to afford one of their Holy Grail watches. No, we’re talking attainability here, watches that won’t necessarily break the bank but are still special enough that even if it takes a “group effort” will still hurt (a little) to purchase. Not to mention, finding these watches locally will have to, at least be possible. So without further ado, here is our list of “attainable” watches from 6 watchmakers that many watch collecting Dads (secretly) wish they were gifted with on Father’s Day.

Where would any self-respecting Father’s Day watch list be without an entry (or two) from Hans Wilsdorf’s venerable watchmaking juggernaut? Starting off with the latest version of arguably the watchmaker’s most iconic timepiece, the two-time-zone GMT-Master II turns 70 years young this year, and is one of the world’s most sought after travel watches… nay, one of the most sought after watches on the planet, period. For 2024, the new Reference 126710GRNR made its debut in an Oystersteel case (a particularly tough industrial-grade alloy) matched with the same grey-and-black high-tech ceramic bezel introduced last year, the combination of which was dubbed “Bruce Wayne”. That name alone is a no-brainer for most Dads and is available in two models, the first is matched with Rolex’s classic three-link Oyster bracelet, while the other is mounted on the five-link Jubilee bracelet, both of which are also in Oystersteel and equipped with the Oysterlock folding safety clasp and the Easylink extension that allows for 5mm of adjustment.

Next is a Rolex made for stepping out in the evening. Conceived as a replacement for the brand’s dressy Cellini model, the latest version of the Rolex Perpetual 1908 (Ref. 52506) made its 2024 bows in a platinum case. Naturally, this precious metal meant the inclusion of a vibrant ice-blue dial, which in this case is highlighted with an eye-catching “rice-grain” guilloché pattern that radiates from the center of the dial for that extra level of luxury. And while made by the industry’s most influential tool-watch maker, the 39mm Rolex Perpetual 1908 is no sports watch but is an elegant timepiece that will elevate any watch collection.

“…the two-time-zone GMT-Master II turns 70 years young this year, and is one of the world’s most sought after travel watches… nay, one of the most sought after watches on the planet, period.”

A member of the “Holy Trinity” of watchmakers, Vacheron Constantin is definitely on many collector-Dad’s whish lists this year with updates of two of its most prized collections. The first are new pink gold models of the Overseas collection highlighted by “intense” green dials. Coming in several variations including self-winding models in two sizes; a chronograph; and a dual-time version, this new Overseas series features the same distinct aesthetic that has made the collection so emblematic to begin with: the six sided bezel evocative of the brand’s Maltese Cross emblem, a motif that seamlessly continues onto the specially-designed links of the integrated bracelet, all of which are highlighted by translucent, evergreen dials.
The second Vacheron Constantin collection on many collector-Dad’s wish lists are the refreshed, silvery tones of the understated but beloved Patrimony collection. Turning 20 years old this year, the new Patrimony models come in two new manual-winding models in white and pink gold noteworthy for their retro styling and their smaller case diameter: 39mm down from 40mm, which is in keeping with modern dress watch style. Adding a contemporary touch to proceedings are new leather straps in azure blue and olive-green, while a new arrival to the Patrimony family is the self-winding Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date, a wonderfully elegant 42.5mm timepiece in white gold with intuitively arranged displays that seamlessly compliment the timelessly elegant Patrimony aesthetic.

What is more impressive than a perpetual calendar? The IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar, that’s what. This high-complication flagship of the newly refreshed Portugieser collection boasts many horological milestones not the least of which is a calendar (leap years and “faux” leap years and all) that is precise for the next 400 years. You read that right: 400, which means this watch will require zero corrections and will not have to be adjusted until the year 3999. And that’s not all, even more eternal is the watch’s moon phase complication, which will also remain accurate for an even ridiculously longer period of time, and we’re no longer talking just hundreds of years but millions, specifically: an astonishing 45 million years. Throw in a solid and surprisingly compact 44.5mm 950 platinum case, as well as a multi-layered lacquered glass dial, and you have an absolute home run of a watch. Admittedly, the IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar is a Holy Grail piece, and is rumored to retail north of $150,000 USD, but what red-blooded father wouldn’t want a watch like this?

I wish we were coming back down to Earth, but alas we have another halo piece that, once again, reportedly hovers above the hundred fifty thousand dollar mark. And the reason for this is the fact that the new TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph is the most spectacular reimagining of the Monaco yet, and is the first mechanical split seconds chronograph for TAG Heuer. Commemorating 55 years since the launch of the original Monaco in 1969, this new Split-Seconds Chronograph boasts a totally new case design that takes direct inspiration from the original 1969 model. Made of texturized grade-5 titanium crafted in the TAG Heuer Institute, the 41mm case weighs a mere 85 grams, which when paired with the wonderfully excessive use of sapphire on the dial and caseback has resulted in an open-worked aesthetic that looks almost weightless in appearance, all the better to view the brand-new TAG Heuer Calibre TH81-00 self-winding split-seconds chronograph movement. Spearheaded by the maison’s movement director Carole Kasapi with a no-compromise mandate, the brand spanking new TH81-00 mechanical split seconds chronograph calibre was developed in conjunction with the esteemed Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier and is based on the manufacture’s integrated, high frequency, column-wheel chronograph calibre.

“..the new TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph is the most spectacular reimagining of the Monaco yet, and is the first mechanical split seconds chronograph for TAG Heuer.”

Bringing us back down to Earth is Zenith’s first diver’s watch in decades: the Zenith Defy Extreme Diver, which is also the latest entry into the boldly stylish, envelope-pushing world of the brand’s Defy collection. This new diver takes inspiration from a 1969 dive watch, the Zenith Ref. A3648, but wears the trappings of the modern Defy family, including the hallmark angular 42.5mm titanium case and dodecagonal bezel. Most especially, this new Defy evokes its predecessor with an orange-detailed dial that also features an engraved geometric motif of four-pointed stars and a sunburst finish that emanates from the Zenith star emblem at 12 o’clock. And did we mention this watch is also “extremely” water resistant to a punishing depth of 600 meters? This makes the Defy Extreme Diver not only a shoe-in for the watch-collector-father, but also for the weekend-warrior-father, as well.

Rounding out this list is a watch from a watchmaker that is a perennial favorite of Calibre and one of the most popularly reliable brands in the Philippines. The latest entry to the incredibly popular Black Bay 58 family, the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT is the slimmer Tudor GMT that many have been asking for at 39mm wide, and only 12.8mm thick, and takes its stylistic cues from its big brother’s iconic GMT-Master, which it turbo-charges with signature elements like the bicolor GMT bezel in indigo and burgundy. A METAS certified Master Chronometer that brings together cutting-edge watchmaking technology with unassailable watchmaking heritage, the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT is impervious to magnetic fields below 15,000 gauss, and is endowed with a movement designed not only to ensure robustness and precision but also features adaptable movement architecture capable of integrating new functions rather than resorting to additional modules. What’s not to love?


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