Carl S. Cunanan
September 1, 2020    |    

The 2020 Rolex Novelties are the Submariners

The new subs are here. Familiar yes but also improved.

Not a lot of big surprises, more like what is expected. And as always, the new pieces tend to put focus on the old pieces. And vice versa. What a nice position to be in.

Everyone will be talking about colors and such. The new no date is all black, the new date can be had with a black or a green bezel, a blue bezel is available but only on the models with precious metal or a mix. But all this doesn’t touch on some key advancements.

There are new movements, which bring the subs further forward now into the realm of the other pieces that have taken advantage of Rolex advances in development. Power Reserve for all the models is now around 70 hours, so it is one of those weekend-proof watches. The Submariner model (no date) uses the newly launched (2020) Calibre 3230, while the Submariner Date uses the Calibre 3235. Both benefit from Rolex technologies such as the Chronergy escapement that achieves both high efficiency and increased dependability. They also use the blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by Rolex with their exclusive paramagnetic alloy, to make things up to ten times more precise.

Movement 3230
Movement 3235

The case is refined a bit, slightly larger at 41mm. It is, of course, guaranteed waterproof to 300 meters. It is available in either Oystersteel or precious metal, and has a caseback that needs a special tool to open up. The familiar Triplock winding crown is flanked by shoulders for protection, and the crystal is virtually scratchproof. On the date models, there is the familiar cyclops lens for readability. The bracelet is also remodelled yet familiar, and several details allow tool-less adjustment of up to around 20mm.

So what are your choices? The iconic Submariner in all black and Oystersteel is the cleanest and most in line with their heritage. The date models in Oystersteel come in models that have a black face and either the same black Cerachrom bezel or one in green Cerachrom. A two-tone Oystersteel and yellow gold allows you either a black face and two-tone bezel or a blue Cerachrom bezel and a blue dial. A white gold case allows you the very nice choice of a black face and a blue Cerachrom bezel, something that will prove extremely popular. Going full yellow gold gives you a choice of models with either black face and bezel or blue. Watches with yellow gold, either full or two-tone, have gold color around the indices.

Our choices? The no date and the white gold with the blue Cerachrom bezel.


The Trinity

Panerai’s Makes Use of New Materials on Three Special PAMs

Pride Objectified

Roger Dubuis Debuts the Excalibur Superbia

The New RM 72-01

Richard Mille unleashes their first in-house flyback chronograph.

Not His, Not Hers…But Theirs

Audemars Piguet Expands its Code 11:59 Collection