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Brian M. Afuang

For Nomos, more is good

Is the watchmaker turning its back on Bauhaus?

NOMOS Glashutte’s embrace of Bauhaus principles has been one of the most defining features of the brand; its watches’ designs (and even corporate literature and packaging) are tidy and logical, the pieces’ forms constantly following function. And though not always subscribing to a less-is-more approach, the watches have consistently managed to stop short of going ornamental. Their execution is rooted in the materials used. The new Tangente Sport and Club Sport, which Nomos released at this year’s Baselworld, are but two of the latest examples of the brand’s dedication to Walter Gropius’ influence. However, this pair also embraces the concept of having “more” rather than going for “less.”

Tangente Sport
Tangente Sport

So, are the Tangente Sport and Club Sport turning its back on Bauhaus?

Nope. True to the Bauhaus mindset Nomos relies heavily on using the best materials, i.e. steel, sapphire crystal, brass and rubies. But compared to other Nomos pieces, both the steel bracelet-clad Tangente Sport and Club Sport rely on more of these materials. And that’s because the two are the toughest, most outdoorsy models in the Nomos lineup. Again, form follows function.      

The steel and glass used in the Tangente Sport and Club Sport are around 20% thicker than those in their brethren. Correspondingly, the seals found inside them are heftier, too. This construction is what allows both models to be water-resistant to 300 meters. That is serious dive watch territory. No other Nomos is like this.

Tangente Sport

The dials and calibers of the Tangente Sport and Club Sport are protected by domed synthetic sapphire crystals, the hardness rating of which is nine out of 10 on the Mohs scale. The material is made via the verneuil — flame-fusion — process where aluminum oxide is heated to the point it crystallizes. The thing can withstand great pressure.

Used in the cases and bracelets of the two watches are the industry-standard 316L steel. Besides resisting corrosion, practically no allergies are known to come from this material. The cases have also been subjected to a rigorous waterproofness test according to the “condensation principle.”

The bracelets were sent to Switzerland for a series of tests in which massive forces were exerted on them (and their steel clasp) in stress cycles repeated in the tens of thousands.

For the Tangente Sport and Club Sport, more really is good.

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