Few watches in the history of horology have achieved the legendary status of those worn by US Navy divers. TUDOR, a brand known for its deep maritime roots, honors this tradition with the Pelagos FXD, an outstanding watch that captures the soul of the classic “Milsub,” fusing the past with accuracy in a modern masterpiece.
The Pelagos FXD is a contemporary masterpiece that tips its hat to the decades of TUDOR watches adorning the wrists of US Navy divers. Back in the mid-1950s, TUDOR diving watches underwent rigorous testing by various units within the US Navy. By 1958, they were officially adopted, becoming a staple for Navy divers. The Pelagos FXD carries the torch forward, honoring this illustrious history.
The name “FXD” alludes to the watch’s robust FiXeD strap bars, an integral part of its titanium case. This model represents a modern interpretation of the revered “Milsub” (Military Submariner) of yesteryear, specifically drawing inspiration from the late ’60s-era TUDOR Oyster Prince Submariner reference 7016. It incorporates elements from the US military specifications for diving watches, such as fixed spring bars, as well as details inspired by other generations of issued TUDORs, like pointed crown-guards typically found on early TUDOR Submariners.
The Pelagos FXD boasts a 42mm satin-brushed titanium case, machined from a single block of titanium, ensuring durability and strength. Its unidirectional rotatable bezel, also made of titanium, features a ceramic insert with a 60-minute graduation filled with grade X1 Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminous material, offering exceptional readability in low-light conditions.
The watch’s matte black dial showcases applied hour markers filled with grade X1 Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminous material, further enhancing its practicality. Powering the Pelagos FXD is the Manufacture Calibre MT5602, certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), equipped with a silicon hairspring, and boasting a remarkable 70-hour power reserve.
A distinctive feature of this timepiece is its “Snowflake” hands, a hallmark of TUDOR divers’ watches introduced in 1969, filled with grade X1 Swiss Super-LumiNova® luminous material, ensuring excellent legibility even in the darkest depths of the ocean.
Historically, US Navy divers often fitted their TUDOR watches with fabric straps, typically one-piece straps in black or green made of nylon. The Pelagos FXD pays homage to this tradition with a one-piece green fabric strap featuring a red central thread and a self-gripping fastening system. Additionally, an embossed fabric-motif one-piece rubber strap adds a contemporary twist to this classic look.
The one-piece fabric strap is a hallmark of TUDOR, known for its manufacturing quality, robustness, and comfort on the wrist. For the Pelagos FXD, a highly technical strap construction was developed, combining a 22mm black nylon woven ribbon with a red central thread, a titanium “D” buckle, and a self-gripping fastening system that adapts to different wrist sizes while ensuring comfort.
The Manufacture Calibre MT5602 that drives the Pelagos FXD model displays the hours, minutes, and seconds functions. Its robust design, longevity, reliability, and precision are ensured by a variable inertia balance, maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with a two-point fixation, and a non-magnetic silicon hairspring. It is certified as a chronometer by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), surpassing the institute’s stringent standards.
One outstanding feature is the watch’s “weekend-proof” power reserve of about 70 hours. This impressive reserve allows wearers to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to wind it.
The TUDOR Pelagos FXD is a timepiece that marries the rich heritage of US Navy dive watches with modern Swiss precision. With its robust design, luminous features, and unique straps, it is not just a watch; it’s a tribute to a legacy that continues to explore the depths of the ocean.
