The Superlative Deep Sea

by Jason Ang

In 1953, Rolex successfully tested a prototype watch called the Deep Sea Special strapped outside the bathyscape FNRS-2 to a depth of 3,150m or 10,336ft. Rolex proved its design mantra with an ultra-rigid Oyster case. By Basel 1954, they had raised the depth rating on all Submariners to 180m or 600ft, in conjunction with the release of the Submariner model 6204. On January 23, 1960, Rolex pushed the envelope further with the Rolex Piccard (model 7205) attached to the bathyscape Trieste that successfully dived to a depth of 10,916m or 35,800ft. The submariner made a great reputation in professional diving circles that in 1967; Rolex released its first Sea Dweller (model 1665) with the collaboration of COMEX (a French professional deep sea diving company). Fast-forward forty years to Basel in 2008; Rolex has once again forged a technological breakthrough in the mould of their latest divers watch the Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA (SDDS). The SDDS has a large 43mm diameter care and has a thickness of 18mm. No Rolex before it has been larger or thicker. Ultimately this is the most imposing Rolex to date. According to Rolex, “The new Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA is a product of man’s inherent desire to push the boundaries of his dreams and his potential”.

Apart from the size, the first thing you will notice on the new SDDS is the ultra smooth bezel. It contains the new CERACHROM disc, which is primarily made of ceramic. The numerals and graduations are platinum filled then applied with PVD coating, a technique patented by Rolex. The triangle marker on the CERACHROM disc is illuminated using a capsule filled luminescent compound developed by Rolex that emits a blue glow. Similar in appearance to its predecessor, the indices on the dial features white gold surrounds now slightly larger to increase legibility, partially coated with a new luminescent material that also emitted a blue glow. Everything on the dial is larger, from the hour and minute hands to the numerous inscriptions on the dial. The chapter ring shows “RING LOCK SYSTEM” and “ORIGINAL GAS ESCAPE VALVE”. The Ring Lock System features a new case architecture developed and patented by Rolex. It uses a high performance nitrogen-alloyed stainless steel ring that can withstand the extreme pressures exerted by the ultra-thick synthetic sapphire crystal and the case back. Both  the crystal and the titanium alloy case back are domed to enable  it to seal the watch shut-tight the greater the pressure/depth.  Something common with the superseded Sea-Dweller is the  Gas Escape Valve. Essential for serious deep-sea divers during  resurface to allow minute gases to escape the watchcase thus  avoiding damaging the crystal/watch. Functional designs like  the non-cyclops date window to the triplock crown are carried  over. At least engineers from Rolex still follow the proven rule “if it isn’t broke, don’t fix it”. 

Often overlooked on a Rolex watch is the movement. It  is probably irrelevant for many, as Rolex have been making  robust timepieces that stay precise and reliable for decades with  minimal service. Another surefire movement found inside  the SDDS is the Rolex caliber 3135. It uses the revolutionary  blue Parachrom hairspring that was co-developed by Rolex  and the Swiss University. This special alloy is virtually nonmagnetic  (hence it resists timing deviations even around high  magnetic fields) and is highly resistant to shocks. The Parachrom  hairspring was tested by Rolex and was deemed 10 times more  shock resistant than ordinary hairsprings. In usual high Rolex  standards, each movement are COSC certified and has a power  reserve of 48 hours. 

One of the SDDS technological highlights is its certified depth  rating of 3,900m or 12,800ft. At 12,800ft, it is equivalent to 2.98  metric tons of water pressure exerted on its case. It would seem  300m is more than enough for any dive watch, but for what it’s  worth, Rolex is trying to push the boundaries and applying  in-house developed high technology to its watches. The massive  depth rating on the SDDS is similar to the highest attainable  speed in a car. You won’t really drive it to its maximum, but  its good to know the technology is there. It is a challenge to  Rolex’s engineers to release the best divers watch available and to  continue the brand’s status of being the king of divers watches.  Rolex states “this new-generation diver’s watch confirms the  supremacy of Rolex in the mastery of waterproofness and  demonstrates an ever-present pursuit of excellence”. With  the technology involved with every SDDS, exclusive testing  equipment had to be developed with the help of COMEX  (Compagnie Maritime d’Expertise) as each SDDS must pass  rigorous waterproof ness tests.  Another huge improvement over its predecessor is the beefier  bracelet and the new Glidelock clasp. The bracelet feels more   robust and the new Glidelock clasp offers a double extension   system. It easily adjusts to newer thicker diving suits whilst at   the same time allows for very fine adjustments without requiring   any tools. The clasp can be adjusted up to a length of 18mm,   in 1.8mm increments. Adjustments can also be made without   the need to remove the watch while worn on the wrist. With   this clasp, gone are the days of half links and trips to watch   dealers to adjust a loose or a tight bracelet. Another great design   principle is the use of brushed center bracelet links, an essential   requirement for every hardwearing divers tool watch.  

The Rolex Sea-Dweller DEEPSEA has once again conquered   the deep-end in terms of mechanical divers watches. Only a   few years ago, many thought that Rolex had gone sleeping on   its own laurels. Lo and behold the king has once again regained   his throne. Since the release of the Submariner more than fifty years ago, it has taken a great deal over twenty years to realize   its greatness. With the SDDS, we may only need a couple. It is a   superb piece of engineering coupled with precise timing much   like its predecessor. It is a modern interpretation with virtually the   same DNA as any other Submariner/Sea-Dweller. It is practical   and very user-friendly for its intended purpose. This is one reason   how the brand has achieved an enviable reputation. One can only   expect all superseded Sea-Dwellers to increase in value over time   much like all superseded submariners in the past. So what’s the   verdict? Figuratively speaking, the SDDS is a Bugatti Veyron. You   may never drive it to 400km/h but its good to know it is capable of   doing so. Rolex has created a new König of the deep sea.