Czar of a Russian Chronometer

by Jason Ang

When one conjures up Russian creations, we tend to bring up familiar names like Igor Sikorsky (Sikorsky helicopters), Mikhail Koshkin (chief designer of T-34 Russian tanks) and Alexei Tupolev (designer of the Tupolev Tu-144 and the Boran space shuttle). With watch enthusiasts, Poljot is a brand that comes to mind as the company was the earliest watchmaking company formed in the Soviet federation.

Poljot Moscow Nights ChronographPoljot Moscow Nights ChronographThe Russian watch industry during the Czar Russia was focused on the assembly of imported movements mainly from Germany and Switzerland, but the supply of watch parts ran short therefore the USSR government decided on developing its own watch industry to satisfy the needs of the red army and the precision timing required by its railways. Machineries were purchased from the ailing Dueber- Hampden watch company based in Ohio, USA. Further technical training was done by the competent staff of Dueber- T Hampden and by German watchmakers. Founded in 1930 under the orders of then leader Joseph Stalin, the First Moscow Watch Factory was formed. As quality and independence improved, the Military Aviation Administration ordered the production of aircraft board clocks on all Russian built aircrafts whilst the airforce pilots were issued FMWF Kirova navigators as standard. This paved the way for the association of the First Moscow Watch Factory with Russian aviation.

On April 12th 1961, Yuri Gagarin became the first man in space and was issued a Shturmanskie pilots wristwatch. The watch operated flawlessly under the weak gravity of space. Due to the great success of the mission, in 1964, FMWF was given the “poljot” name meaning “flight”. On 1965 onboard a Voskhod 2 spacecraft, cosmonaut Alexei Leonov wore a Strela chronograph during his first historic space walk. Numerous space flights thereafter by astronauts from France, Germany, Russia and Ukraine all wore Poljot watches thus carving Poljot’s place in space history.

Poljot 3133 chronograph movement through see-through casebackPoljot 3133 chronograph movement through see-through casebackIn 1976 saw the creation of the famous 3133 chronograph movement (based on Valjoux 7734 calibre). Valeriy Vladimirovich Polyakov wore a 3133 movement based watch aboard the MIR  space station. This cemented the Poljot watch as the longest watch worn on a space flight in history (438 days). The record to this day is still being held by the Poljot 3133 movement.

With modern day Poljot chronographs, the company continues to build workhorses in highly refined stainless steel cases. With upgraded facilities and improved manufacturing techniques, they have successfully revolutionized the 3133 movement by adding complications suited to differing customer needs.

The first watch on review is the Poljot Moscow Nights chronograph (3133.19402- classic). It’s housed in a perfectly sized 43mm diameter case. A combination of brushed case and a polished bezel attains a perfect form. Two sub-dials (off-center seconds at 9 o’clock and chronograph 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock) and a central-seconds hand (painted in red) completes the chronograph functions. Hands and numerals have applied lume for improved night-time visibility. Domed mineral glass is a welcome design choice as it adds to the overall vintage feel of the watch. Workmanship on the case is superb with no trace of sharp edges. It sure felt it was easily worth five times the asking price (retail is only Php 18,400). More importantly, at the heart of Moscow Nights, it contains the robust 3133 chronograph movement, improved for over thirty years; it has a 42 hours power reserve or 37 hours (when the chronograph is running continuously). The winding feel of the hand-wound movement is as smooth as watches costing much more. The see-through glass back shows the beautiful chronograph movement. Also engraved on the the case back is the year “1682” which signifies the year the Romanoff family started their rule over Russia. Little details add to the overall ownership of the Moscow Nights.

Poljot dual time with day/night indication special editionPoljot dual time special edition with day / night indicationAnother beautiful looking timepiece is the Baikal Chronograph w/ moonphase (31679.194-baikal). The case is similar in design and size with the Moscow Nights yet this watch feels different altogether. Named after the great Lake Baikal located in Southern Siberia - this is the deepest freshwater lake in the world and is believed to hold 20% of the world’s freshwater reserves. This is a fitting tribute from Poljot. It consists of three subdials and the moon phase at 6 o’clock which contribute to its dial symmetry. Honey comb guilloche dial with roman numerals capped by a domed sapphire crystal adds to the classical lines reminiscent of the early 19th century designs. The movement is a 3133 based hand wind Poljot 31679 chronograph. With 42 hours power reserve, it has a date window at 4:30. Hand winding watches must be appreciated and enjoyed, here the Poljot 31679 movement didn’t disappoint! The watch comes in a wine-colored alligator strap which looks business formal or casual.

Super luminova on both hands of Poljot Regulator Open BarrelSuper luminova on both hands of Poljot Regulator Open BarrelProduced in a limited edition of 333 pieces, the Poljot Regulator Open Barrel (36033.994-Regulator) is one of the newer releases of more complicated timepieces from Poljot. Reading the time on the regulator takes getting used to. The dial is unique and beautifully laid out something not easy on a regulator layout. The hour-hand is located at 1 o’clock, the minute-hand is located at the center while the seconds dial is located at 9 o’clock. It also looks stunning in low light when the lume is shining brightly as Poljot only painted the hour and the minute hands. The 3603 movement doesn’t wind as smooth as the 3133/31679 but is equally as impressive under the display glass back. Blued screws, cotes de geneve ribbing and colored wheels are housed inside the 43mm diameter gold plated case. The movement is a Molnija 3603 movement with a 36 hour power reserve, 18000vph w/ shock protection. It is a unitas based movement refined by Poljot. This limited edition model offers a complication yet is simple in its execution.

Poljot has been making watches for around 80 years yet they have kept their price per value structure intact. Unlike some watch brands, they did not increase their prices absurdly eventhough their vintage watches like the strela, kirova, shturmanskie and sputniks are highly collectible pieces. Take for example the Poljot regulator open barrel which retails for Php24000, I personally believe this is a lot of watch for its asking price. It is well made, has great complication and is equipped with a robust molnija movement. It amazes me that the brand hasn’t taken off outside the circle of Russian made watch collectors/consumers, as their timepieces are very well made and comparable with their Swiss, German and Japanese counterparts. I would blame it solely on the lack of marketing hence lack of product awareness more than anything else. At current prices, they are not all about big corporate profits, extravagant marketing or over-hyped complications, something any consumer should appreciate about Poljot. It seems that continued watchmaking excellence and passion runs through Poljot’s management, goes to show that owning a Poljot solidifies the experience that it’s ”From Russia with Love”!

The Poljot Regulator Open BarrelThe Poljot Regulator Open Barrel