For Hermes, holding things on is more complicated than it seems.
The Bienne workshops of the Hermes watch company have recently seen the opening of a new workshop. True to their leatherwork legacy, the brand has opened a watch-strap workshop with attention to detail and process that might make pale by comparison the assembly of even some simpler wristwatches.
Hermes entered the horological world in the 1920s through its production of high end and quality leather watch straps. Growing demand to fit their premium straps onto special timepieces, as well as growing demand for their own wristwatches, has brought together the two components of saddlery know-how and watchmaking creativity in the new facility in Switzerland.
The attention given every single leather watch strap Hermes produces is quite surprising. We were given front row seats to what they call a “twelve act ballet” that starts with specially chosen leathers and ends with one exquisite hand made leather strap.
As prelude to this twelve-act piece, the leathers are all chosen for specific traits and consistencies, then stored in a sealed warehouse at constant temperatures and humidity levels. Leathers to be used will include everything from goatskin, calfskin, and alligator to buffalo, ostrich and the more exotic. From here the main acts begin.
Pre-cutting the skinsAct One shows us the pre-cutting and pairing process, where the craftsmen are looking for texture and aesthetic qualities to complete the two parts that will make up the whole strap. The longer part will be attached to the watch case at 6 o’clock; it will be tapered and will be where the holes are pierced. The shorter part, which attaches at 12 o’clock, will have the buckle. The selection process involved here is rigorous, avoiding wrinkles, veins or scratches. Not only must the two pieces be of the same shade, coloring and texture, even the alligator scales must be appropriately matching.
Act Two brings forth the dressing and tapering of the two chosen parts, which are gradually and evenly thinned down from their central full proportions to paper-thin at the outer edges. In this process, any hides that are too thick or unyielding are eliminated.
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| "A SINGLE FLAXEN THREAD AND TWO HAND-OPERATED NEEDLES CROSSING IN EACH HOLE AND FINISHING IN THREE END STITCHES AT THE EXTREMETIES CREATE THE FAMOUS SADDLE STITCH THAT ENSURES GREATER OVERALL RESISTANCE." | |
Softening the edges
Applying the die
Polishing the sidesIn Act Three, the gluing begins. First the “viledon” fabric that holds the piece together, then the lining material.
Act Four represents the point where the leather begins its transformation as the precision cutting begins.
At this stage we see the entrance of the true leather work and the finishing processes. Special tools such as edge bevellers, bodkins, skivers and special needles that have been particularly made or adapted for leather work are used. Act Five consists of marking with compass or tracing the sewing line and the stitching points into the leather using the specialized tools.
The stitching itself then occurs as Act Six. A single flaxen thread and two hand-operated needles crossing in each hole and finishing in three end stitches at the extremities create the famous “saddle stitch” that ensures greater overall resistance.
The next three steps all involve just the thin side of the strap. In Act Seven, the craftsman takes the strap section and softens it at the edges by rubbing and sandpapering. Act Eight involves dyeing this particular side area that has just been finished, Act Nine smoothing it out and Act Ten polishing it. Each of these last three steps will be repeated several times until the desired consistency, smoothness and texture is achieved.
In Act Eleven, creasing or marking a furrow between the sewing line and the edge of the leather makes the strap more supple while at the same time enhancing its thickness.
For Act Twelve, in a series of delicate operations, the two loops of the strap (one fixed, one mobile, are each cut out, thinned down towards their edges, glued, marked in preparation, then once again sanded, dyed, smoothed out, further smoothed, polished and repolished. The most intricate maneuvers are dome on the fixed loop, which is sewn by hand, always in the same saddle stitch, with the needle flitting around the mobile loop without moving it at all.
For the grand finale, the strap maker authenticates each strap with a letter signifying year of manufacture, and a special geometric shape to designate the use of the most precious hides. The House logo or maker’s mark is then, finally, stamped on the precious Hermes strap.