Defining Classical

Jaeger-LeCoultre uses a brand new model line to remind us of their history.

Jaeger-LeCoultre has been making some very strong statements lately, bringing forth wristwatches that grab attention and generate discussion at a glance. Their new pieces have been strong, masculine and daring, all in the direction of the next generation of wristwatches.

But Jaeger-LeCoultre has been around for rather a long time, and has earned itself the reverential nickname of the Grande Maison. Since 1833, it has brought to the world over one thousand different movements and been granted more than two hundred patents. So while many newly-minted enthusiasts look at the name and think of pieces like the Master Compressor Extreme W-Alarm or the Extreme Lab, Jaeger-LeCoultre has been responsible in many ways for the creation of the classics we look to for purity, design and elegance as well.

So how do you create a classic wristwatch for the new world? Something with the beauty, symmetry and aura of the historic timepieces while still bringing something worthy of your name to the table? In the case of Jaeger-LeCoultre, they decided they would reinvent the classics. More accurately they would produce a whole new mechanical movement concept and surround it by a thoroughly classical, elegant case and face. The result is a reminder to many that while the tough watches that now live under a bespoke suit sleeve are fine, true brilliance and beauty is reserved for those who appreciate it.

Visually, the new Duomètre à Chronographe might not get your attention immediately, not when surrounded by the spectacular Extreme Lab or the Master Compressor Diving. However, wiser enthusiasts would see the new watch image and pause even if they knew nothing more about the piece. There is a cleanliness, a balance to the wristwatch that you appreciate without necessarily understanding why. You begin to notice a few things, the split-seconds hand from the centre, the time-telling subdial at 10 o’clock. You see two slim hands at the lower third of the space, but no indication of why they are there. They have the “+” and “-” markings of a power reserve, but why two of them? Then if you see the watch chronograph in operation, you quickly see something else; a 6 o’clock subdial that jumps around once a second, cutting the surrounding circle into sixths. You may also then realize you are looking at a chronograph with only one pushbutton.

 "INSPIRED BY POCKET WATCHES WITH COVERS, THE CASE IS EXQUISITELY FINISHED"

All of these things on their own wouldn’t be that spectacular necessarily. It is the package that gets your attention, and then makes you look behind the beauty to the power. What is groundbreaking here is not the chronograph, but the whole new line and movement concept that Jaeger- LeCoultre is launching along with it.

The new Duomètre model line, of which the Duomètre à Chronographe is the launch timepiece, gets its name from the double movement concept that Jaeger-LeCoultre has created. Inside their “Dual-Wing” Calibre 360 movement are two independent mechanisms. Each of these has its own going train, each has its own barrel. There is no interaction between these going trains; they operate completely independent of each other. They share only a single balance, the regulating organ that gives the basic time measurement as it spins back and forth. Technically, then, these two movements share only their basis of time.

The idea behind this concept is to provide a movement, and a wristwatch, with two independent power sources that will each be dedicated to one purpose. One system powers only the time-telling side, while the other only powers the chosen complication which is, in this case, the chronograph complication. Each of these system or going trains has its own barrel, each of which has a reserve time of 50 hours (thus the two power reserve needles.) Both of these barrels are wound via the single crown at 3o’clock on the watch case. Using an ingenious gearing system with the single crown controlling two winding ratchets, turning the crown clockwise winds only the time-telling barrel while turning it counterclockwise winds only the chronograph.

The separation of these two systems means that they so not affect each other; during chronograph operation, timetelling accuracy will not be affected nor will its power reserve. Also, because the going trains are separate, there is no need for a dedicated chronograph-coupling clutch. This helps insure instant start and stop operations.

The construction principle of the Calibre 380 uses an interesting horological device to replace that coupling-clutch; the jumping-seconds mechanism seen at 6 o’clock. A jumping-seconds mechanism has been used before, in the 19th century in pocket watches. At the time, the jumping hand was activated directly by the fourth (or seconds) wheel of the movement in order to indicate fractions of a second. It could therefore not be stopped or reset, and was effectively just a sweep seconds hand. For the Calibre 380, Jaeger- LeCoultre developed a system linking the jumping seconds hand to the chronograph function. This allows the jumping hands to be used to measure elapsed time along with the other chronograph indicators, and it allows all the chrono hands to be reset to zero at the same time, via the one pushbutton.

Winding the CHRONOGRAPH mechanism

Winding the TIME-TELLING mechanism

The amount and level of complication brought forth with the new Duomètre à Chronographe is obviously daunting, particularly when you take into account Jaeger-LeCoultre’s need for absolute clarity and readability. Neither function nor aesthetics could be compromised. Visually, the watch face is dominated by two symmetrically-arranged subdials. On the left is the time-telling function with an hour and a minute hand, with a small label “Duomètre” just below it. On the right is the Chronographe indication function, again with an hour hand and a minute hand and with the small Chronographe label below it. Marking indications for this Chrono subdial include the “60 minutes” on the outer ring and “12 hours” on the inner ring. Additionally, on the lower portion of the subdial is a small window that gives the minute unit indication in a more readable manner via a rotating disc. Note though that this disc only goes from one to ten, so after the first rotation you need to pay more attention to the minute hand above.

	STEP 1: Chronograph start
STEP 2: Chronograph stop
	STEP 3: Chronograph reset

The jumping seconds hand and subdial are located at 6 o’clock on the main dial, and the two power reserve hands flank it. Just between the power reserve pivot points is a special number plate. In our photos, the plate bears the inscription “Cal. 380,” but in limited editions it will carry the special serial number. Extending from the center of the main dial are two second hands, which makes the timepiece look at first glance like a rattrapante. In order to handle the vast array of indications now visible on the watch face, the JLC design team headed by Janek Deleskiewicz have colorcoded it. Everything connected to the time-telling function, including hours, minutes, seconds and the power reserve indication, are gold-plated or rhodiumplated depending on the wristwatch version. Anything having to do with the chronograph complication, including hours, minutes, minute-disc numerals, jumping seconds and power reserve are in blued steel. The end result is a surprisingly readable watch face, even if all functions are in use and all hands are in enthralling operation. The watch’s silver-coloured dial is fine-grained like velvet, serving as elegant backdrop for all this action.

In keeping with both Jaeger-Le Coultre history and the multiple-personality connotations of its name, the new Duomètre à Chronographe is enthralling on many levels, on its many faces. The watch is a perfect example of why so many enthusiasts now look to handwound movements when the want to add depth and breadth to their collections. Freedom from the vision-reducing rotor means the movement is visible in all its glory through the sapphire crystal case back. Strongly-shaped bridges will remind you of the older movements of classical horology, hand-bevelled and with polished sinks. They provide an excellent base and foreground for appreciating all the other components on view. The two independent barrels are snailed and beveled by hand, with the ratchet-wheels clearly visible, sunray-blushed with engraved and gilded “chronographe” and “hours minutes” lettering indications for the appropriate parts. This duality in the Duomètre identity continues, as the taut, straight shapes that define the decoration for the standard watch mechanism contrast with arabesque motifs for the chronograph, revealing the hearts, hammers, jumper-springs, column wheel and other intricate workings. This decoration is inspired by Jaeger-LeCoultre’s traditional pocketwatches. The going trains are circular satin-brushed with hand-polished sinks. Wheels and pinions, also hand-bevelled or embellished with polished sinks, feature snailed or smoothed-off surfaces. Flameblued steel screws abound, underscoring the complex nature of the company’s new calibre. All this is enchanting just looking at it on its own. It gets even more so when you wind the crown, as you will see all the intricate movement, wheels turning, ratchets clicking, but only in the appropriate systems. Clockwise for the time-telling, counter-clockwise for the chronograph.

The movement and indeed the concept of the Duomètre à Chronographe can be considered new takes on historical horology, but the case in which the Dual-Wing movement is wrapped is pure classic. The rounded case, crafted in your choice of platinum, pink gold or yellow gold, is 42mm in diameter and 13.5mm in thickness, and is water-resistant to a depth of 50 meters. Inspired by pocket watches with covers, the case is exquisitely finished. Delicately satin-brushed surfaces on the case itself alternate with polished surfaces of the bezel and the welded lugs. The level surface around the case-back sapphire crystal is delicately engraved. A large new crown has been created for the Duomètre line, finely grooved for grip and adorned with the JLC monogram. The rectangular single chronograph pushpiece is satin-brushed.

The Duomètre à Chronographe has already been making the appropriate horological waves. It is a bold statement for Jaeger-LeCoultre to make, bringing forth a whole new concept but wrapping it in a cover that looks decidedly classic. A good reminder perhaps that while tough, extreme sports watches have been bringing new enthusiasts into the fold, the watchmaking peaks still belong to the elite.