Brand. New ...

Branding. The current byword for the watch industry, the luxury industry and just about everything else nowadays.

We see the power, effect and use of branding regularly of course, and the Baselworld and SIHH shows bring it to the forefront. I had two rather strong reactions to a branding of product at the shows, in two different directions. One brand, which I shall not name, has taken an iconic brand image or logo and expanded with it like crazy. The brand is increasing in just about every way, but I personally feel that they are now overdoing it. They have taken one of the best logo uses in the world and beaten it to death. It was perfect where it was in their core product. It was clean, smart and immediately communicated what they wanted to their buyers and to those who saw the products on their buyers. They have expanded now into other products including watches, and here is where I think it has gone too far. They have taken the logo and put it everywhere, in expanding silhouettes on bezels, cases and faces. It has gone too far for a brand that many consider (incorrectly in my opinion) the epitome of their craft. They are however extremely good at marketing, and their brand is about as well known as Rolex. Which to many of course means mass market luxury and no longer true artistry. This brand though has pushed upwards with new projects and acquisitions and names, so perhaps it is the job of the stalwart to grab market share everywhere it can and at any level it can, while the new name goes after the ultra luxury consumer.

Then we have another brand who has pretty much taken branding to an art form. Interestingly, most watch companies who are priced much higher rarely complain to us when we feature them too close to their own more expensive pieces (and you would be surprised how often this happens.) Their power, marketing stature and history put them in a position similar to that of Patek Philippe in that no one ever questions what we do with them or where we put them or how we feature them. They know their brand, and their branding, and they have taught me a huge amount about it all. So when they gave me a gift recently, I was surprised and extremely impressed that there was no branding whatsoever on anything initially visible. The piece, a set of cufflinks, was shaped in a way similar to some of their design icon products, but definitely not something you could place right away if at all. It was just subtle and well made, and communicated that they have in fact transcended the need for overly obvious branding. An interesting thing to notice, but in a company that studies very carefully every little thing they involve themselves with, it said a lot. I found out a few weeks later that the company is expanding their product range dramatically, taking their technical and design expertise to whole new markets. If this is the attitude they will bring, it shows surprising power and strength. It may also be forecasting a refreshing and much needed sea change in branding practices. And for this brand known for being technologically avant-garde, such pioneering is right up their alley.