The Breguet Type XX isn’t what most budding enthusiasts would consider typical of the storied name’s offerings. It doesn’t have many of the popular innovations and details of worksmanship you come to expect from the watchmaking company.The casework is simple, though it does carry the fluting on the side. The dial shows none of the legendary detailwork expertise for which Breguet has become known and popular, especially if you choose the unique carbon fiber dial that comes with the titanium case. You have no guillochage, no “secret number,” no signature. Even the byword “Breguet hands” only make an appearance on the Chronograph’s seconds hand.A Type XX from 1954 with flyback and straight line lever escapement. Note the similarity in details with the modern XX, including the shape of the subdial hand at 3 o’clock. Note the differences also, the central seconds hand uses a diamond shape rather than the recognized Breguet circle.

Little did John Arnold who founded Arnold & Sons ever reckon that this company he started in London at 1764 will one day be a world-renowned watch company. The unique back of the Grand Tourbillon Perpetual and its moon phase indication. Appointed to join the Court of the British King George III, John Arnold quickly realized that his true talent lay in his ability to invent timepieces for the British ships. This discovery enabled John Arnold to invent the first ever pocket chronometer, (Nº36). He also invented many horological breakthroughs like the helical balance spring, the bimetallic spring, and the spring detent escapement. Arnold and Sons possesses a rich history of leading great achievements in the field of Marine chronometers enacting and passing strict rules in the manufacturing process of maritime timepieces, as well implementing strict guidelines on how each and every watch are tested on land and on water.

The Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch, the reason for all the enchanting imagery, isn’t quite what it seems. It looks round, but it isn’t quite. The style is somewhere between classic and futuristic. The glass magnifies the dial numbers and seems to distort time. The Roman Numerals are displaced by the Ballon Bleu itself, the sapphire cabochon decorating the winding mechanism of the precious metal models.

FOR Ballon Bleu de Cartier Jean Giraud Moebius Born in 1938 in Fontenay-sous-Bois, France. Now lives and works in Montrouge, France.

Ballon Bleu de Cartier One of the elements we have found in the watch industry that continues to surprise and delight us is the level of inventiveness, creativity and whimsy that pops up where you least expect it. Sometimes this is found in the pieces themselves, sometimes in the events surrounding them, sometimes just in the amount of fun people are trying to bring into their lives. The Ballon Bleu de Cartier books were designed by Jean-Luc Fromental and Michel Baverey Cartier decided to launch their new wristwatch line with, of all things, comic books. More accurately, avante-garde comic book imagery brought forth with the premium feel that only they could provide. According to the illustrious luxury house, no Cartier object ever comes into existence without an accompanying legend. Their new watch, the Ballon Bleu de Cartier, brings forth its legend as viewed and conceptualized by seven of the brightest gems in contemporary comic book work.

Luxury trunk maker and luggage juggernaut, Louis Vuitton has been making fine luggage and suitcases since 1854. Because of the company’s long and proud history, tradition is a valuable word in the house of LV, but that has not stopped them from becoming extremely innovative, modern and creative.Always the trendsetter, Louis Vuitton has been careful to progressively expand with a range of luxury products that are consistent with the brand’s core values. In 1892, for example, the company needed to grow and expanded into the much faster paced handbag market. In 1997, the enigmatic designer Marc Jacobs joined the firm as Artistic Director and with that “acquisition” the company, already steeped in heritage and tradition, opened its doors and began offering a line of leather goods, ties, ready-to-wear lines for men and women, pens, men’s and women’s shoes, jewelry; and in 2002 made the move to haute horlogerie and began offering precious watches.

HURRICANE COBBER The Merlin II sputtered into life, and only then my two wingmen started their Hurricane Is. After the usual checks, I waved the wheel chocks away and taxied off. The takeoff was uneventful, and we grouped in standard V formation and climbed towards the skies above Saarbrücken, soon leveling off at our patrol height. I knew exactly where the German border was. It was against orders to cross this border, but I wanted some action, and frequently crossed it, disregarding orders anyway. We just crossed the border into Germany when I spotted some Messerschmitt Bf 109Es above us; nine of them. “Here’s the action!” I said to myself. I closed the gap in an favorable position and opened fire on the leader. Two “Emils” broke formation to attack us. The Hurricane trembled as all the eight .303 calibre Brownings fired a deadly hail of bullets, tracers showing hits on the leading Me 109. It caught fire and fell in a plume of smoke.

TISSOT QUADRATO CHRONO Tissot squares off the competition with a square-faced chronograph.Tissot’s Quadrato Chrono comes with a 30-minute, 1/10th of a second and 60-second counters. A 316L stainless steel case protects its ET A G10.211 calibre.Tissot Quadrato ChronoSeries: QuadratoFunctions: Chronograph(30 minutes, 1/10 of a second, 60 seconds), date, hours, minutes, secondsCase: 316L stainless steelCalibre: ETA G10.211Water Resistance: 100mBracelet Strap: Rubber strap with deployant buckle and push-buttonTISSOT'S HERMETIC TIMEPIECE first made its debut in the Roaring ’20s.

What’s the next big step in the watchmaking world? Maybe it shouldn’t be tourbillons, or jewels, or more exotic materials. Maybe it should be service. Upkeep, repair and bringing the customer to and through that process, a process that most won’t understand and may not even expect. But several market forces are coming together to turn the after-market service portion of watch ownership a battleground, whether between brands, between brand and distribution, or even between buyer and brand.First, you have the ever-increasing base of consumers that are paying more and more attention to what they want seen on their wrist. More customers are spending more money and want something more special than ever before. So more customers are going upscale, and buying complications with no real idea yet what goes into what they may be purchasing just for bragging rights.

BUSINESS MONTRES, the watch industry newsletter, has released the results of their poll on the leaders of the watch industry. Editor Gregory Pons has collated the thoughts of 75 key journalists from 22 different countries who gave their opinions on the best bosses in the watch field.Business Montres is published in French.